My Guide to Portofino
From delis and restaurants to boutiques and day trips, here are some of my family's favourite discoveries in and around this jewel on the Ligurian coastline
Holidays, for me, are about sunshine, quality time with my family - a rare chance to work through my growing pile of books - and the joy of discovery. Whether it’s a delicatessen, a quiet cove for a swim, a beautiful church or an artisan’s workshop, I believe that exploring new corners of the world keeps our curiosity alive - and few places spark that feeling more than Portofino.
We return to this jewel on the Ligurian coastline year after year - drawn by its clear waters, pastel houses, scenic hills and great local food and wine. Having documented much of our trip on my Instagram, I’m thrilled to share this more detailed guide to embracing la dolce vita in and around one of my favourite Italian seaside towns.
FOOD & DRINK
Bar Morena is perfect for an aperitivo overlooking the harbour. The owner, Ugo, makes the best peach Bellinis in the world. A good spot for people watching, too.
ö Magazín Ristörante is a place we’ll often go for lunch. Anthony and I love the fresh acciughe (anchovies) with tomatoes followed by Pappardelle Portofino - made with fresh pesto and cream. Simple and delicious.
Ristorante Da Ö Batti is a bit of a hidden gem. It’s a funny little restaurant up a narrow alleyway that is known for its legendary ‘Scampi alla Batti’ - fresh prawns served in the most delicious buttery sauce. The recipe has been a closely guarded secret for over fifty years.
Trattoria Tripoli is a wonderfully relaxed and unfussy restaurant in the main square that serves honest Italian fare. We enjoyed more acciughe con pomodoro and a great spaghetti alle vongole.
Pacific Canale is a famous old bakery that serves the best focaccia. I especially like the one with cheese.
Winterose is a brilliant wine shop and bar right on the edge of the marina. Emanula, the owner, has such impressive knowledge. We’ll always stop in to chat, stock up on a few bottles - and enjoy a taste of her cheese drizzled with truffle honey.
SHOPPING
L’Ancora Boutique is an exquisite clothing shop that truly embodies the essence of Italian style and craftsmanship. Maurizio is a friend and curates a great collection of cashmere and beautifully cut trousers.
Boutique YC WHYCI is where I buy a lot of my lovely soft cotton holiday dresses - including the one in the photo below. Paolo, the owner, is a friend who shares my commitment to slow, sustainable fashion. All his pieces are made in Italy using natural, raw fabrics such as silk, wool, linen and cotton and 100% renewable energy.
Mingo is a family-run footwear shop that has been in Portofino for 80 years - spanning three generations of family. Every style is classic and incredibly well made. I always buy a pair or two of their suede shoes that fit me like gloves.
Maltempi Boutique has a great mix of brands from luxury to traditional. I love browsing to find new labels that I haven’t heard of before.
PLACES TO VISIT NEARBY
Carrara
Nestled in northern Tuscany’s Apuan Alps, this town is famous for mining and processing some of the finest white marble in the world. You can visit the quarries - and there’s a brilliant family-run showroom I always pop into that’s been crafting with this natural stone for five generations. I find the distinctive and delicate blue-grey veining so beautiful, so I simply had to collaborate on a range of unique home accessories for Bamford. Take a look here.
Forte dei Marmi
This seaside town has a great fish market, but the biggest draw for me is Salumeria dai Parmigiani - a legendary family-run deli which has been there since 1952. Their selection of cheeses, cured meats, preserves and wine is incredible to browse and taste. I shared a glimpse of my delicious haul on Instagram - including a couple of their young pecorino cheeses, the best white belly tuna, truffle pasta, dark chocolate and a great bottle of Tuscan white wine.
Isola del Giglio
One of seven islands that form the Tuscan Archipelago. Giglio is lovely to visit for a day trip - a little bit like Tresco for the Italians. We had dinner at a sweet little restaurant called PortaVia.
Pietrasanta
A charming medieval town where we spent a happy afternoon strolling around the streets, churches and galleries. It feels a little like an open-air museum, with interesting art and sculptures around every corner. Many have been donated by artists from all over the world and I was interested to read that Michelangelo stayed here for a long time to work with the white marble from the nearby Apuan Alps.
Santa Margherita
I’ve been visiting Seghezzo for years - one of the best delicatessens in the world. The traditional interiors are beautiful and we’ll always stock up on lots of their delicious cheese, wine, ham and old fashioned sweets.
Love Pietrasanta and Forte Dei Marmi. We used to visit many times a year. Must go back soon. Thank you for this.
Beautiful read Carole. It's now on my 'list'. Best Helen